The train: why we started in Kandy

Kandy is the classic jump-off point for the Kandy → Ella train, a route regularly called one of the world’s most scenic: tea estates & waterfalls. Because it is so incredibly popular you need to book your tickets as far in advance as possible. They are released exactly 30 days before the date you wish to travel so we decided to use 12go to secure tickets as we had used them before in Thailand. They secured us Observation First Wagon tickets from Peradeniya (a few miles outside of Kandy) for £85 total and delivered the tickets via courier to our homestay.  The journey was amazing and the scenery ever changing, plus my daughter got her all important hanging from the train instagram shot, BUT the 6 hour journey ended up being 9.5 hours. If you have limited time whilst in Sri Lanka it might be advisable to just travel a smaller section of the train route from Nanu Oya to Ella.

Ella in 48 Hours: Adam’s Peak, Tea factory, Waterfalls & Nine Arch Bridge.

We arrived in Ella around 9pm, grabbed a tuk tuk to our Airbnb, and lined up two tuk tuks for the next day so we could cover all the places we wanted to see. Having drivers stay with us was brilliant—zero time wasted hunting rides, full freedom to linger where it mattered. Ella packs a lot into a small area, so this setup really suits family backpacking in Sri Lanka (especially with teens).

Our plan in Ella: a tea factory tour, a waterfall swim, Little Adam’s Peak (often called “Adam’s Peak” locally—this is the Ella one, not the pilgrimage mountain), and the famous Nine Arch Bridge.

Stop 1: Little Adam’s Peak (morning, for the views)
Our driver suggested starting here to beat the clouds and heat. He drove us close to the parking area and we walked the rest—easy, manageable for most people, with drink stalls and washrooms along the way. Surprise bonus: there’s a super “Instagrammable” swing at the top that my daughter loved, plus a very high, very fast zip line nearby for the brave. If you’re going for sunrise, pack a light layer and your caffeine of choice.

Stop 2: Local tea factory tour
We paid for the tour and spent an hour learning how tea is picked and processed, then tasted our way through the different grades. It’s fascinating (and teen-approved) to see the whole journey from leaf to cup—and it deepens the “Sri Lanka with teens” experience beyond viewpoints.

Stop 3: Kuda Ravana Falls (for a cold dip)
Swimming at a waterfall was on the kids bucket list, so we headed to Kuda Ravana Falls. With ours at 15 and 18, they could navigate the slippery rocks and clamber into the pool; I wouldn’t recommend it for younger children. Wear sturdy sandals/shoes with grip, and move slowly—those rocks are slick.

Stop 4: Nine Arch Bridge 
It was busy (it usually is), but still magic. We arrived about five minutes before a train crossed, walked the bridge, then grabbed food at a little restaurant with a view. Tip: ask your driver or a nearby café when the next train is due and time your visit—then enjoy the spectacle without rushing.

A happy accident! 

One evening we ventured into Ella for dinner and were lucky enough to see Esala Maha Perahera, a traditional cultural and religious festival scheduled for July. This event features traditional dancers, musicians, and elephants, and is one of many festivals that take place in Sri Lanka during the Esala season, which can fall in July or August. 

The bakery TukTuks – dont miss out!
We’d heard about “bakery tuk tuks” and hadn’t seen one yet, so we hunted down a local bakery instead and… bought one of everything. Incredible value, super tasty, perfect for on-the-go. If you spot a bakery van or a tiny storefront with fresh bakes, treat it like a compulsory stop.

Yala National Park: Dawn safari and pool days

We left Ella by private taxi, about two hours on the road, and based ourselves near Yala for a couple of nights. New thing for us, using a hotel as a safari base rather than winging it, and it worked perfectly with teenagers who wanted some sunshine and a pool.

Where we stayed: Blue Turtle Hotel via Booking.com. Roughly £20 per person per night including a very hearty breakfast. Clean rooms, friendly team, and a pool that quickly became home. Wild peacocks wandered past our sunbeds during the day which felt delightfully surreal. We also used this stop to reset, laundry included. A local launderette washed everything from all four backpacks for about £10, ready the next day.

Our Yala morning safari

We booked a private morning safari through the hotel, around 60 USD per person including the park entry. Pick up was 4.30 am, with a breakfast bag sent us off like pros. After a 30 minute drive we were at the gate in very good time, roughly five trucks from the front before opening.

I had read that some days are quiet and others are full of sightings, so we went in with realistic expectations. We were lucky, with crocodiles, elephants, mongooses and a sloth bear. Yala is renowned for leopards, plenty of travellers do see them, but we did not on this run. It did not dent the magic. Midway through, we stopped at a simple beach café inside the park. The stretch of coast is beautiful and surprisingly quiet, given only safari vehicles can access it. For context, Yala is open roughly 6.00 to 18.00, and early starts give you cooler air and calmer tracks. 

Thinking about a northern safari instead of, or as well as, Yala

If you are coming to Sri Lanka, I would recommend a safari, either in Yala in the south east, or up north. Two excellent options further north and north central are:

Wilpattu National Park, northwest

Sri Lanka’s largest and one of the oldest parks, a vast mosaic of forest and natural rain-filled lakes called villus. It is known for leopards, sloth bears and elephants, and feels quieter, which means a more tranquil game drive with fewer vehicles. Access is typically via Anuradhapura or Puttalam, with best wildlife viewing outside the heavy rains. 

Why pick Wilpattu: wilder feel, beautiful lake clearings, good chance of big mammals without the crowds that can build up at Yala. wilpattunationalpark.com

Minneriya and Kaudulla, north central

If elephants are the goal, the elephant gathering at Minneriya and its neighbouring Kaudulla during the dry season is extraordinary, with hundreds of elephants congregating around the reservoirs between roughly July and October, depending on the timing of rainfall. Many operators switch between the two parks to follow the herds. 

Detour to Arugam Bay: Beach, Surfing & the Secret Jungle nightclub.

We watched the weather like hawks, on our apps and in this very helpful Sri Lanka Facebook group, and pivoted east to Arugam Bay: Sri Lanka Travel Advice & Tips. It looked sunny, and we wanted to learn to surf, so it was an easy decision.

Why Arugam Bay worked for us

Arugam Bay is Sri Lanka’s east-coast surf hub, a small town with long sandy beaches, point breaks for every level and a lively social scene. Peak surf season typically runs April or May to September or October, so prices and crowds climb in those months. Expect well known breaks like Main Point, Peanut Farm, Whisky Point and Pottuvil Point, with softer options for beginners and long, rippable rights for intermediates. 

This was also our most expensive stop, roughly £25 per person per night. If you plan to spend a bit more anywhere, spend it here. We found hotels average for the price, so paying up for a better standard will likely feel worth it in high season. The trade off is sunshine, surf and plenty to do.

What we did

Surf lessons

Our hotel arranged everything, tuk tuk pick up, boards and wetsuits. We paid around £25 each and it was worth it. They took us to a gentle beginner spot and within ten minutes both teenagers and my husband were standing. Note on sun cream, the local one we tried washed straight off in the sea, bring a high quality, water resistant SPF from home. 

Secret Jungle Party
We tracked down the Secret Jungle Party one evening and had a brilliant night meeting backpackers from all over. Nights vary, so keep an eye on Instagram to see when it is running. 

Eating our way around town
The food scene in Arugam Bay is excellent, with strong breakfast options and plenty for vegetarians and picky eaters. We went back to a couple of cafés more than once, which tells you everything. Check out the Salty Beer.

Practical notes if you are detouring east

Seasonality drives both surf and price. The east coast tends to be best May to September, which is why it was buzzing.

Beginners will be fine with a local surf school. Ask your hotel to arrange lessons and transport so you can focus on learning rather than logistics.

Sunscreen matters. Bring your own water resistant SPF and reapply. The UV is high and you are in and out of warm water.

Nightlife exists but is low key outside party nights. For the jungle party, double check current details on Instagram before you go.

Tangalle and Rekawa: turtles, quiet beaches and a stay we’d repeat

We headed to Tangalle by private taxi, drawn by the beaches and the chance to see turtles. It turned out to be one of the major highlights of the trip.

Where we stayed

Turtle Paradise on Airbnb, about £15 per person. We would happily recommend it, great rooms with everything you need, a generous breakfast, and a three minute walk to the beach and Turtle Watch Rekawa.

Rekawa Turtle Watch, how it works and why it matters

Rekawa is one of Sri Lanka’s most important turtle nesting beaches, about 7–10 km from Tangalle. Five of the world’s seven sea turtle species nest here, including green, loggerhead, olive ridley, hawksbill and leatherback. A community-based conservation project has been protecting the beach and running guided night watches since the 1990s. 

When to go: nesting happens year-round, with a peak from roughly March/April to July. Even outside peak season you may still see activity, but nothing is guaranteed. 

How visits run: the night watch typically starts in the evening at the Rekawa visitor centre. You wait with the rangers until a turtle is confirmed, buy your ticket, then walk down in small groups. Only red lights are used on the beach to avoid disturbing turtles, and there is a strict no touching, no flash policy. Follow the team’s instructions, they are there to protect the turtles first and foremost. 

Our experience

We arrived in what’s officially the shoulder, and kept expectations low. Within hours of reaching the beach, one of the sanctuary team called us over to a chance hatchling release near our accommodation. That evening we joined the organised watch at Rekawa. We waited around 30 minutes at the centre before the call came through, bought our tickets, then went down in a small group with red lights to quietly observe a turtle laying her eggs. It was respectful, well managed, and the right way to do it.

Practical notes for Tangalle and Rekawa

Book a base near Rekawa so you can walk or take a short tuk tuk to the centre after dark.

Cash is useful for tickets and small spends.

Clothing: dark, light layers, and sandals or trainers for the beach walk at night.

Etiquette: no white torches, no flashes, no touching, and take all litter away. The rangers’ rules protect both nesting females and hatchlings. Turtle watch rakawa

Kitulgala: white water rafting, canyoning and a river-view finale

After some lovely beach days, we wanted to end with something more adventurous. I used to love white water rafting, so we looked at the map and realised we could head inland towards Kitulgala on our way back to the airport for a final hit of rafting and canyoning.

Where we stayed

We booked a private taxi and checked into the Plantation Hotel in Kitulgala, which I found on Airbnb. The big appeal is the location, right on the Kelani River and close to all the watersports, plus a pool overlooking the river for an easy post-adventure float.

Who we booked with

I had been following Marvel Sri Lanka on TikTok for a while and liked their approach, so we booked rafting and canyoning with them. They have years of guiding under their belt and offer the full mix, from rafting and canyoning to abseiling and zip lines. 

The day out

We were collected from our hotel by tuk tuk and taken to the river base. We started with white water rafting on the Kelani. It’s a brilliant introduction spot, typically a mix of Class II–III rapids that gives you a fun, splashy run without feeling technical. Sessions usually run 1–2 hours and about 5 km on the water, which was the perfect length for our teens. 

After rafting, we hiked up to a nearby waterfall for canyoning. Think natural rock slides, short abseils and confidence jumps. I skipped one jump because it was very high, but the rest of the family loved it, and the finish was dreamy, drifting down the river in our life vests back towards the hotel.

Little bit of trivia for film buffs: this stretch of river and the area around Kitulgala were used as the filming location for The Bridge on the River Kwai. You can still find references to the old set sites around town.

Practical tips for families and teens

Book a reputable operator and ask about group size, guide-to-guest ratios and the specific canyoning route. Marvel and other established outfits will run through safety clearly. TheMarvelAdventures&Expeditions

Season and water levels change the feel of the river. Rafting is possible year-round, with livelier flows typically May to December when rains swell the Kelani. If water levels are very low, some routes may shorten.

Wear secure footwear with grip for canyoning, plus quick-dry layers.

Sun protection matters, especially in and out of warm water. Bring a high-quality, water-resistant SPF from home and reapply often.

Dry bags for phones and a microfibre towel make transitions smoother.